Even if you have an automatic turner in your incubator, marking helps you ensure that the turner is working properly. Marking the shell helps you visualize that they have been turned properly and frequently. During the incubation period, you will rotate the eggs. When you are ready to set the eggs into the incubator, mark an X on one side of the shell using a soft pencil, and an O on the other end. ![]() This helps prevent the embryo from sticking to the shell membrane. ![]() Rotate which end is propped up approximately every 12 hours. If you are holding the eggs for longer than 24 hours before beginning incubation, prop one end of the carton up a few inches. Place the eggs into a cardboard egg carton with the pointed end down and set in a quiet spot in the same room as the incubator. If you are not ready to begin the incubation period on the day that your eggs arrive, you may “hold” your shipped eggs for up to 10 days from the ship date.īefore you handle hatching eggs, always wash your hands thoroughly to prevent bacteria from entering through the porous eggshell. Setting cold eggs in a warm and humid incubator will cause the eggs to crack and the embryos will die. If your duck hatching eggs have been shipped in the mail, allow at least 24 hours rest to let the yolks settle and for the eggs to reach room temperature. If this happens, the duckling becomes stuck inside the shell and will likely perish. Without enough humidity, ducklings tend to become “shrink-wrapped” when the shell membranes dry up and contract around the duckling, restricting its movement within the shell. The correct humidity levels during incubating and hatching are much more important for waterfowl than they are for chickens. Then once the ducklings begin to pip in the final 24 hours, humidity can be allowed to increase even more to 80% (92 wet-bulb). Then as the ducklings prepare to hatch, the humidity should be increased to 65-70% (88-90 wet-bulb).
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