![]() ![]() The door lock was removed by removing the small circular cover on the side of the door and removing the 4 mm Allen bolt. the tension cables will still be intact so it's kind of tricky to move it around, but as long as it's down as far as possible you'll have enough space. you can't really remove the window regulator, just remove the two nuts and gently stuff it down and to the left out of the way. Once the glass was out, I removed the two 10 mm nuts holding the outside window regulator guide to clear some space. to get a good idea of where the hook is, look down into the hole of the glass, youll want to take your right hand position it behind the glass, grab the plastic clip and pull outwards and using your left hand, pull/push the glass upwards to unclip. if you have big hands you're pretty much screwed imo. this is the WORSE part out of this entire DIY. i have small hands and after 30 minutes, i was able to unclip both holes. TAPE the window glass to the top of the door so once you unclip it, it won't fall down and shatter the glass, i doubt this will happen but better to be safe. if you find that you don't have enough space for your hands to go in and out to unclip the window just reconnect hte battery and power window cable and play with it to move the window to a comfortable position. there are two hooks that you'll need to unclip. See the photo with the circular hole in the glass to see what you're dealing with. I just used the plastic trim tools behind the glass to pry the clip out enough to pull the glass up. No special tool was used to unhook the window glass from the window regulator. you don't want it all bunched up and messy when you put it back together. use a sharp blade to help you cute the sticky butyl tape. The vapor barrier was completely removed. I removed the door light and replaced the bulb with a wedge LED for good measure. The power cable to the windows has press-point and rotating lever to get it unhooked from the panel (see photo). The unlocking button rod was pulled straight out of the actuator. there are five cables: speaker, mirror, window control, flood light (bottom of door) and door handle hook. The tape in the picture of the black interior is where the hooks are. Once the panel was removed over the unlocking button, the wires were unplugged, and the Bowden cable was unhooked (see photos). The fasteners hold up well as I removed the panel a number of times. I worked clockwise until all that remained was removing the panel from the upper clips. To remove the door panel I started toward the top inside corner near the window speaker (right-hand-side of the photo), again using the plastic trim tools. these will fall out once you unscrew them all the way, don't worry if they don't, they'll fall out once you remove the panel The three Torx-20 screws were removed from the panel. pull the trim from the side closest to the hinge since the other side (the side closest to the door lock) is a hook. The "wood" trim was removed using the plastic trim tools starting toward the inside (right-hand-side of the photo). ![]() i followed this but i think the original poster meant bring the glass down so it's OPEN 4-5" because i was able to unclip the plastic hook from the window easier this way. The driver's side window was brought down so that about 4-5" of glass remained visible. I did scratch some of the paint inside though, but it didn't bother me that much since it's underneath the panels I also didn't have plastic trim tools, I just used my hands, a screwdriver, and force. I didn't have the Bentley manual, just the pictures posted below to go along with, and I managed fine, so it's not needed if you follow this guide. The plastic trim tools worked really well. The Bentley service manual was also used as reference. The actuator was ordered for $34.82 from Tischer Fuses 56 and 57 were fine.įuse 56 was replaced with a 20 amp mini as suggested. The actual key and door handles work fine for unlocking and opening this door. Problem: The driver's side door will not unlock with fob or central locking button. With that being said, i now will paste cisfinmark's reply. If i had to do it again, I can see myself doing it all under one hour. This DIY was a pain, took me close to three hours just because I was afraid to break certain parts. His help to me was too great to just go unnoticed as a reply so I'm posting this so others can benefit from it as well.ĭealer charges were in the hundreds for those out of warranty. I searched the forum and A LOT of people had this problem. The user cisfinmark replied to one of my threads with this DIY guide when I mentioned I had door lock issues but he's no longer active (last login was in Oct 2010). First of all, I just want to say that the instructions below were not written by me.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |